macbruce

Beware!! The face is welded/repaired!!!

Thank you for your information sir, that's quite a relief.

A little wiff of vaporized zinc would't put you in the trauma ward, It's just better not to do it at all. I have pliers just like yours and I believe they're just bare steel, too bad they were good pliers.....

No nonsence blade, I like it..... :ph34r:

Mike-hr:   These are clearly non-standard o-rings....very thin.  They are so small as to be difficult to remove without scratching the spool.  My guess is the kit includes the spool and gaskets

 

Macbruce:  Parker was going to be my next stop as there is a distributor 4 miles from my house.  I'd really appreciate a part number for a valve with a 5 CV rating. 

 

Thx, K

Here it is..................Parker #     B743000XXA My cost over a year ago was $140

I found when I welded the dies to the plate the plate warped a little bit I think this would make them not sit flat and maby help it crack, I set it up in the lathe and turnd the plate down till it was flat.

I always put a slight curve/crown on the mounting plate before I weld em together in order to counteract the pull that always occures when you weld the two together. It's better to have a slightly concave bottom fit up than convex which makes tightening the bolts evenly a pain in butt.

Welding mild to tool steel with 6011 or common mig wire will stick em together but it will most likely fail in the long run...... :(

You can usually jury rig a 1 lb SS wire spool to work in any mig machine and will do a good job welding tool to mild but you'll need 75/25 (argon and co2) gas to do it.

any chance that the O-rings are standard, readily available at the auto parts store sizes?

I bet they are......If that's the case then beware Marvel Mystery Oil users. I almost bought some at the thrift store in gal. jugs not long ago and it wouldn't have been unlike me to mix a little in with some air tool oil........... :ph34r:

Parker makes a better counterpart for less money. I'll have to dig up the part #......

Just did another with  flat dies that weigh 10 lbs less than the big combos and it was .270, mission accomplished......

The old reading on my hammer when it was a 250 is still good, but it is now a 220 due to the fact I lowered the tup to more like 100k or 220. I'm going to fuss with it a bit more and see if the reading changes. The timbers it's on suck XXXX and it rocks.....I'm leaning towards making a box out of steel say 10''x 1/4'' the size of the steel plate base and filling it with concrete, THAT will put an end to the wiggles and maybe up the efficiency a tad more.....

Well, it didn't get any prettier but it does hit harder.............Before: 10 blows = .430 .......Now 10 blows= .300

I use 5/8 for my small hammer and 3/4 for my larger one. I've never had any problem using just common bolts. There is shock but no shearing action, all they really do is keep em in place.

what size are the dies on this hammer??

The dies in the first pic are huge combo dies like; 4x8'' but they work well for striking/drawing manuvers. Most of my other dies are smaller.

Hey Bruce, interesting hammer design with the two cylinders. I will be looking forward for the results of your before and after power hammer tests..........ken

The two cylinders were a necessary evil at the time and I wish your control had been available. I couldn't get past the small Norgren spool valve with it's 1/2'' npt ports and using one surely would have made the hammer action very sluggish,  so Norgren spool valve x 2 it was. I remember you saying that your valve would operate a 250 lb single cylinder hammer no problem and that would have cut fabricating (the head)and all those hoses in half.

It is an ugly duck I'll admit, but it rocks.

Nice work, I'm glad scorpions don't get that big.....

...See what you made me go and do Mr. Hyde, I hope you're satisfied..... :angry: ......Now I gotta put it back together.....
 

 First a break............

  Enough for one day........... B)

Is this a self contained hammer? I ask because of the double cylinders and I don't see any obvious feed lines running up the wall.

 

If it is, would you be up for a tutorial on how the air system of a self contained hammer works? I've thought about building one to replace my compressor powered hammer, but I know nothing about the linkage, valves, cylinders etc, and how they work.

I'm pretty good, but I ain't THAT good..... ^_^ ......The hammer, like I said is a ''Bull'' mutant. I actually was privy to some drawings by Tom Trozak when I built it. His drawings were of a double cylinder hammer that mounted the cylinders side by side. It seemed more logical to mount them inboard and outboard. If I had it to do over (which I do but I ain't) I'd use a single cylinder design with a Zitur control. It runs on 15 hp compressor.

It makes me wonder thousands and thousands of anvils must of been made in the last 150 years where have they all gone,around my county of yorkshire there were hundreds of foundrys including the mousehole .but sadly nearly all them closed now but anvils are not exactly bio degradable are they

One word....war. During wartime, especially the 2nd WW. Not only plowshares were tossed into the fiery furnace but thousands and thousands of anvils as well. It's not like they were needed for making swords.

Neat! I'll have to try one,,,, B)

All I can say is I'm glad I built that hammer when I was in my 50's...... :lol: .....Why I started with a big one is, well, just how I am and I paid the price building the thing.....Take for instance the three shiny bolt heads that hold the side plates to the frame.....I was at a junkyard of course  and spotted six SS 1''x 3.5'' coarse thread bolts......A little big I figured because 3/4 or 7/8 would have been fine, but big, fat SS heads would look cool...Right? Tapping 1'' x 2'' deep holes by hand is.....well, you just haven't lived until you do six of em, take my word...... :wub:

I built this Bull mutant hammer in 2003 and it was originally a 250, recently I lightened the tup by 50lbs so it would be more snappy because finishing blows were too slow.

Yeah, I know the anvil is too small....but when I first built it sat atop 5000 pounds of concrete that was above grade 10'' so it seemed reasonable at the time and it will still will do a decent job forging 3'' sq mounted on timbers but a 4 to 1 tup to anvil is a bit on the bang side, I want it to THUMP again so........

The old piece of round used for the anvil is 9''x 20.5'' x 369 lbs and the new piece is a 18x15x12'' x830 lb scrap injection mold (for .35 cents PP) which when capped with a piece of 2x12x15'' plate will weigh in at 932 lbs. The 2'' plate base under it counts for at least 500 lbs so I'll be  over 1450 lbs total with the lower dies so....7 to 1 + it will be...... B)

I'm going to do the PH test before and after and there better be a diff or I'll bight a nail in half !!! :angry:

3/4 shaft, Pulley is 2-!/2 OD, probably about 2" effective pitch diam. Clutch does a good job regulating speed down to perhaps 100 BPM, then gets a bit sticky, may be old lubricant and low temps. We've has a cold spring and my shop is an old milk barn with a lot of concrete i.e. thermal inertia. Good in the fall when it's slow to cool off, but also slow to warm up in the spring.

You got it made. You should be able to get a machined steel sheeve that is 1 3/4'' dia, which will reduce rpms by 30%. The smallest cast iron pully made for a 3/4'' shaft is 2'' or -20% rpm. Both way cheaper and easier than a jack shaft......I'd wash the old oil out of your clutch with wd40 or mineral spirits and re lube with oil that ain't real heavy.

While we're on this, I have a 50# LG, got it tuned up now, don't have much experience using it. I've searched the site and seen numbers around 300 RPM for the hammer speed. Mine is about that, but I would like opinions on a good speed for a newbie at hammer use. I might be able to conveniently slow mine to the 220-250 RPM range, , more than that would require a jackshaft. Any suggestion? My motor is single phase, 1725 RPM. 1-1/2 HP.

What size motor pulley are you using and what is the diameter of your shaft? If you're using the smallest cast iron sheeve you can get, be aware that you can get smaller sizes in a machined steel pully/sheeve. Boston Gear has them.

You've got it backwards....A bigger pulley on the motor shaft will speed things up. Problem is you can't put a small enough pulley on a 3450 motor. 1750 motors generally require the smallest diameter pulleys ( 2.5'' or less) to run a hammer and you're thinking of doubling the rpm?...Think again.....

Thanks for showing, nice work.

What Ted sed..... :)