macbruce

Congratulations Frank, I reckon you had been heatin and beatin fo ten years before I met you at your Skunk Hollw Forge demo in 74, where does the time go? Your contribution to the re birth of blacksmithing will long be remembered and my you forge ahead for many more years, Bruce

A silicon bronze braclet would likely be ok for some people to wear but others might have a strong adverse reaction to it......

Think of it this way......When you wear a bronze/copper braclet or ring it turns your skin GREEN. When you inhale fine particles of bronze from polishing or fine grinding it's doing the same thing inside you.....no bueno! My Father in law was helping me finish a bronze railing once and the ol' cuss wouldn't wear a mask even after I warned him. The next day he was a believer, said it felt like he'd been kicked in the chest by a horse.... ;)

WOW, great score!

Well Google spell check wants you to spell it hardy they put a red line under it if you spell it hardie. 

Well, when the on again off again spell checker works here ''blacksmithing'' always gets the red line..... :rolleyes: .......I'm gonna write in a vote for Neil's ''Spud Hole''  Yawn......... :mellow:

Very crisp, nice work.....

Mandrel smangerill. This will likely bring on the nay sayers but it's worked with excellent results for me on 3 hammers......

When I rebuilt this 25 lg last summer I used the shaft itself as the mandrel. With the shaft and cone removed and well prepped simply join them back together (tap the two together with a soft hammer to make sure they stay locked)after filling the grease hole (X) with damming material, remove the grease zerk, damm the space between the cone and clutch shaft with daming material through the holes, set the bull wheel face down supported by blocks (whatever) so the pin is not interfering with keeping it vertical and you're ready to pour. Yes it will come apart after the bearing is poured, simply put a block of lead on the floor, pick up the whole assembly by the bull wheel and drop it hard on the end of the shaft repeatedly till it gives up or you do (it's ok to take a break) but it will come off. Of course it's too tight so you've got to make a scraper which for the 25 lg was just a piece of MS flat stock 3/16 x 1'' bent at one end at about 80* with the radius of the bore ground to fit and sharpened so it shaves the babbit in nice little curls. Work the scraper 360* around the hole methodically from just past center pulling out material then flip the cone and do the same from the other end until the new bore can be coaxed onto the shaft, if it drops on you've blown it... :( so take care to go slowly and evenly removing the material.....Better a little tight than loose because babbit breaks in quickly..... ;) ..........Deflection?? Only slight if any, certianly not enough to inhibit the function of the hammers I've done.

Note: When I did the pour(s) the clutch material was removed, that is it was metal to metal.

Sweet, I've used my small bench type mounted in a larger vice on occasion for horizontal work.

For a thousand less the Peddinghaus is a clear winner imo. I've used my Ped for decades and hardness has never been an issue.

B) nice bit O' kit !

I remember asking you if your control would work on an inverted cylinder machine at Rapid City, can't wait to see the results....... B)

Nice work, I'd be proud to own one....mb

Any Blacksmiths in the Sarasota area up for a visit? I'll be there for 9 days starting tomorrow......MB

WOW, very nice piece, good effort and it shows..... B) ...Some dementions please......

I had a 500lb'er for 30 some years and my 165 for nearly as long....One day it dawned on me that I'd been walking around the 500 to get to the 165 98% of the time all those years and decided to sell the 5, or maybe it was just downsizing..... ^_^

A 1/8'' to the foot taper is hard to see in the grooves but  it's there. Worn reciever grooves make it hard to measure sometimes. Sid Sudemeier at littlegianthammer.com makes conversion dies for sale and has always passed on any info I've needed whitout resesvation, great guy.....

I talked to my friend Jim Vilona (on FB), who does alot of SS sclpture with patina(s). He always preps the surface with a 10% ferric nitrate solution at 200*f before he applies any patina. This gives the SS a chemical ''tooth''. He has several videos on his FB page where he's working with SS.....

I believe you when you say that it does, but I still don't understand why it does.

Ok Captian, I don't have any problem with your maniacal mug so here's a hint; turn the drawing upside down and think of the fulcrum as the hammer in motion and load/effort as the high points at each end of the face of the anvil........ :D

In negotiations with the scrap yard, all being well I will pick it up tomorrow. 

Well done! I don't see many anvils here that speak to me but that one has been a loyal friend to someone for a long time and perhaps handed down several generations. It's hard to imagine how much iron has passed over that well worn face but it ain't done yet...... B)

Pardon my ignorance but could someone please explain why a swayed anvil is better for straightening?  

Concave surfaces lend themselves to that better than flat ones.......My Peddinghaus #9 is FLAT and rarely gets used for flattening/straightining  barstock.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xXGSV1pwMnE

Ha! I was right....Welcome Chris and I checked...... There's only two scrappies on the Island, best jump on that anvil. Looks like a keeper to me..... B)

I wonder how many scrap merchants ther are on The Isle of Man? :ph34r: .......If I was there I'd be hot to trot...... ;)

EDIT; No sympathy please, I'm miserable enough about it.

Think of it as downsizing........As long as you're getting your hands dirty you're not retired...... ;)

20*f, 50mph wind, with 5-8'' of snow today....a good day for surfing.... ;)