macbruce

 Sounds like you're touching all the right bases. Welcome aboard.... :)

Grizzly imports some wood and metal working machines that are passable, that doesn't include anvils.....

 ''I am overwhelmingly grateful. There are so multifarious forgotten moments written at hand by and described. I cognition them again''.

I don't know about the former but at least we can agree on this..... :P

I am in the camp of, it helps with keeping or adding heat. I doubt tha you will ever see someone heat a peice of steel to red by hand hammering without doing the hit turn.

Good Point..... :)

I keep turning the bar 90 degrees because that is how I was taught to do it, many years ago.............never thought about the alternative, though..........interesting!

DANG! I thought this one would really fire your rockets Stu, you're getting mellow in your old age...... B)

When I'm doing points for leaves and finishing tapers I always do the boogie in the power hammer or by hand. When power is not an issue like Basher says I rarely bother and I get good results......On an off day I can make ''diamonds'' from rounds no matter which way I try.....

I think size does matter here because once a bar gets above a certian size it's alot more work to do. Trying to flip say a 3'' bar back and forth in time even with a bigger slower hammer is not easy.......

I've gotten things loose with this bad boy that I figgured were froze forever.......On an aplication like yours the bit would need to be unersized a little and hard. If it were to spread against the plug you'd be in worse shape......

25 LG's for instance go way faster than most can keep in time with. The one guy I've seen do it is Peacock and I was impressed..... B)

I've often watched smiths turn their work on the anvil and the power hammer (sometimes at mind boggling speed) 90 deg each time they strike the bar they're forging. I rarely do this prefering to work down one side and then the other.....What if any is the advantage of this?

I've never had any problems in all my shops large or small unless the flame is rich, and if that's the case it must be corrected......I know dozens of of other wild and crazy blacksmiths who have never used hoods over their propane forges...... :o .....

The pic is my unventilated living room fireplace that I bought at HF and it runs on propane and it has never set off the CO detector  in  5 years.....

I spose the regs for a school are what they are but I'll continue as I have till the bitter end..... :)

A home ventless fireplace is not the same as a forge

The best reason is to prevent anyone from breathing the carbon monoxide fumes which can and does kill poeple.

I shoulda died over 30 years ago then...............

  What is the best setup/positioning for a mechanical local exhaust being used to provide ventilation for a propane forge?

Why do you want to ventilate your propane forge in the middle of January? If it weren't for mine I'd freeze....... :wacko: 

VERY NICE WORK . you have captured: random chaos  , balance and beauty combined ,  well done mate! 

Thanks M8, Random chaos is the story of my life so I guess it's a natural...... :D ....You do very well at making order from chaos.....

Could be done no problem, casting in bronze or aluminum for the hilt after making a model in wax, blade would be best cut out of sheet then ground. Dont listen to anyone else man, I used to get the same defeatest answers but stuck with it now I live the dream, making swords for a living! It wont be easy but it's totally doable. The blade ouwld be the easy part, modeling that whole hilt in wax then having it cast right would be tricky.

I believe the query Razzputin put fourth here was to: ''enable me to forge out a replica of frostmourne a sword''. No one here has said it can't be done and you haven't mentioned forging at all in your reply......

I enjoyed the film, thanks for posting....mb

Moi?....That's all I have to go by, a PW is the only anvil I've seen with those distinctive flats on the feet....My theory is they could have been used to cleat the anvil down firmly while doing the final forging.....I've used them for that to fasten mine to the platen table with the use of a fabricated adapters for the dogs to press on.

is that due to the feet / steps?

I say PW, very nice anvil..... B)

 I dont see why forging it would be such a problem.

If you're looking for someone here to tell you, hey, no problem Razz this is how I whipped one out you're going to draw a blank. Even forging a strait double edged sword requires allot of experience and skill.......I'd get it plaz or waterjet cut and then do some forging or stock removal to get it to shape. 

 

What did you use to make the attachments with?

 

 

 

 

Thanks, If you mean you mean the leaves here it is......http://www.iforgeiron.com/topic/30814-aspen-leaf/   Btw it's an electric candle, the Boss likes it because of his little kids....

Found this image at blacksmith.org....Grant pointed out that it is a high speed press....want B)

Found this surfing about....I bet the brig was under the shop..... :wacko:

Thanks Rusty, I like starting the day with a good laugh!

I put a lot of thought into posting that smiley face and DO NOT appreciate it being removed

MIKE TANNER

There, there, you can have mine...... :)

I smoked with my pipe hawk made from steel and curly maple way back when and I'm still here.........Was it ''healthy''? Probly not.... :lol:

Take a ball peen hammer and do a light/medium hit on the face of the anvil with the ball.....If it leaves a dent you'll know why.......;-)