macbruce

I'd use silicon bronze with a tig but OA with the proper flux will do just fine also.....

I agree with Bentiron, silicon bronze is a joy to forge.  Work it at a dull red, no hotter.  It moves very easily under the hammer.  Don't get it hotter than a low red temp or it will crumble like old cheese.  When it gets up towards orange or low yellow chances are you will only pull half of your bar from the fire.  High heat conductivity so use tongs even on longer pieces.

You are right on all points.......But if I even 'think' it's too hot to handle I turn the gas forge OFF until it cools to a safe level and don't move it at all until it does. This has saved me many a time. A water siphon spray (I can't find my thread called ""COOL IT'' which shows one) can really be useful to keep the heat creep in check on the handling end.

.  He said that you can make this part from a weldment then machine and you will never know the difference. 

I was thinking the same thing but I reckoned welding it together would warp it too much...... :huh: 

Nice looking machine, Can't wait to see what you can do with it.... B)

I just snagged this off off Facebook.....enjoy

I don't know about the pitting on the face but I know what chisel ''test marks'' are and that anvil has at least 4 on the left front foot. It hasn't been used much but it ain't no way NOS.....

   Hello. I'm new to pounding iron and I Forge Iron, but electrician has been my occupation my forty+ years. After reading what has been written as to what  you are trying to do, the information you have provided, the information from the Surplus web page, I'll put in my two cents worth. If I understand what has been written you have a 2 soleniod operated closed center hydraulic control operating with a power unit that runs off another seperate switch that has the unit run continuesly until it is switched off, but is not controlled by up/down buttons of the pendant that controls the hydraulic control.

   If  this information is correct, then neither of the Surplus pendant controls 11-3244 or 11-3255(VHS61) is the correct one according to their information. Surplus pendant control 11-2201, again from their information, appears to be the switch you need and the print that ciladog furnished eariler is accurate and will give the control you desire.

   All this being said, most likely any one of the pendants would work if you could open it and rewire the switches internally but with the way the internal connections of of some manufacturers are made(today some switch jumpers are welded instead of wired) , that might not be a viable option.Hope this helps and do some visual of your bender.

Hi Ronip, welcome aboard. I made this into a kinda sub thread because it was a specific problem and I wanted imput from those not necessarily interested in the http://www.iforgeiron.com/topic/20235-bulldoze-bender/ thread.

1018 hot rolled eh? Oooooook....... B)

could someone explain the ball bearing test (I need to get a ball but am curious). the chunk has a little ring to it, and I looked up rounds from metal suppliers and it looked similar to hot rolled (big diameters dont seem to really be round), but Ill still test it some.

It's not hot rolled it's ''rough forged''............The BB test is done buy dropping a BB from say 10'' and if the BB bounces back say 8'' It's rated 80%.(good) 3''  not so good.  A 3/4'' dia BB or larger works best....

Nice anvil....That cylinder may just be a usefull anvil in it's own right....Spark test it and do a ball bearing test. It has forging marks running vertically so maybe it was a cutoff from a RR axle or some such.....

I use this material mostly for firedoors and such. A it's pain to do by hand or with a grinder so this what I do....http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=462RpxGWtdc

Neat idea, and I just happen to have a lower flat die with similar mounting holes for such a device. Looks good for guides as well as kiss blocks, thanks for posting.

Does the hammer run on after you let up on the treadle?

Been following this one for a bit, and hate to sound Croc Dundee-ish, but those are not Bull Dozer benders, Calf maybe.  This is a Bull Dozer Bender, see machine in the front left.  Name is on the press arm.

 

IIRC those beams are 1"or 1.5"x4" solid steel, and is one of the component of an Arch Bar truck used under early railroad freight cars.

 

Rich C.

Cool picture......... The format of my ity bity machine resembles the real honkers do so Buldoze Bender it was. I took this picture in 2011 of one (not the same brand) that has since been since scrapped and my old friend Cyrus has passed as well. This Bulldozer, still mounted in place had General Iron Works of Englewood Colorado torn down around it.

As for using co2 from a gardening store I wouldn't personally.
 

This product is the exact same thing I've been buying at my welding suppliers for 20 years.

There's nothing illegal about selling ''growing supplies'' anywhere as far as I know...........

http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=mj+grow+stores+louisville+ky&source=web&cd=3&cad=rja&ved=0CD0QFjAC&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.growstorefinder.com%2F&ei=hanjUJyeIOOWiALq2oGQCA&usg=AFQjCNG4gVWQivO-aYqIF98XTlD9p-prDA

Happy b day Bruce!  I hope those are fake flames you are using there, looks dangerous ;)

Thanks Judson, Actually the wd40 wouldn't light for spit so I used gas..... :o ......They're real.

No heat. If it twisted cold it will untwist cold. You might try clamping one flat  end down to a table and clamping a say meter long bar across the other to use for twisting it back into shape.....It's hard to tell from one picture what your clamping options are and dissasembly will likely be nessisary. Just don't get tooo heavy handed with the clamps or you'll break the casting.....welcome aboard

Being a cheap so and so myself I don't use 75/25 for mig welding except for SS. 75/25 costs alot more and I've not justifyably seen superior results with it. Now the huge bottles of co2 must weigh over 200lbs full which for me is a pain in the keester so I use these little aluminum bottles.....In the past I've paid $15-$18 to get one filled and as much as $35 at welding supply stores (never went back there again) but now I pay $7. How? ''Grow Stores'' that sell medical MJ supplies have these little tanks as well and they fill em cheap....... B)

WD 40 is flammable and to use it with a electric wire brush is dangerous,.

In spite of the risk, there's no other shine quite like it!...... ;)

Forgive me Rich, you're not the only one who has to put up with Macbruceter the wiseaker on my B'day...... :lol:

Time well spent, and I bet that piece took a bit. Nice work!

awsome hammer and great  video.. is it air or hydraulic powered and how do you make it fire in multiple hits please.

Thanks, It's an air hammer, hydraulics are too slow for fast reciprocating blows. That machine operates at around 250-325 blows per minute depending on the air pressure.

How can you question the power, grace and technique (not to mention the ensemble) of this master......blacksmith Stu? B)

Looks like a pretty good hammer from what I can see. ID? :huh:  Give it a name....

The size of the tank don't mean squat if the pump won't put out the required CFM. 6hp x 60gal should do fine but with a 6hp rating it sounds like an import to me and they never in my experience put out what they're supposed to. A 'good' 5hp should put out 17.5 cfm.

Grant really got it right when he made his OCP tongs lighter,more durable, and of better steel. The stronger shape of the 'T' reins also contributed. He didn't ''fix'' tongs he improved them and I prize those little tongs above all others when I can use em.

. I was fortunate to see his operation shortly before he passed and it was fascinating to watch.I reckon I could make a bottom die in the shape of a T for the PH and pound out reins into that shape whereas Grant forged em in one easy push along with several other quick steps via some impressive forging equipment. Truth be known I'd rather buy tongs but I did make a pair once..... ^_^