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macbruce

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Posts posted by macbruce

  1. I take it back. I broke an anvil with a sledge once, it was the first anvil I ever bought and from a surplus store I recall.....It was a 50#  and after a forging session or 6 it looked like I'd moved more metal on the 'anvil' face than the hot steel...... :angry: ......Anyway I picked up an 8# sledge an broke off the horn and heel and tossed it in the scrap.... ^_^.....The school of hard knocks was a bitter pill and I've never considered a 'new anvil' at a surplus store or places like HF ever since. Having this forum would have been nice back then.....

  2. Macbruce thanks for posting the pictures of your bottom bolt on system. I will surely use this as I have pleny of dies that do not line up that well. Mark

     

    There is a rub here. You will reduce your headspace so make the sowplate as thin as possible.....no less than 3/4'' or more than 1''  I would say....The hammers I have built have always had them factored so they're 1 1/4'' min.

  3. Wow, really?  As a complete newcomer I feel like this is something I could tackle on a smaller scale fairly early on.  What IS the easy way?

    This is the easiest, just buy pre cut out petals and go to it.........The pic is not my work.

     

    http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=colorado%20water%20jet&source=web&cd=1&cad=rja&sqi=2&ved=0CCsQFjAA&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.coloradowaterjet.com%2F&ei=0eHHUJWBCoWWjAKY44GgAg&usg=AFQjCNE7G2WZzVqv_lUNWA38FINseBqcAA&bvm=bv.1355247934,d.cGE

    post-15096-0-83598000-1355277013_thumb.j

  4. Yep, the schematic is spot on and Surplus Center shipped the wrong pendant. SC has agreed to take the incorect one back even though I cut the wires from 20' to 8', Good folks... :) .....Now all I have to do is wait..... :(

  5. Here's the deal with the pendant I have......When I connect my continutity tester to green and white It operates both U&D, when I connect black and green only U operates and D is dead as it should be.....

    I believe the single acting pendant VHS-61 is for a car lift type pump which needs no power to lower a heavy car cause weight alone will do that.

    The double acting 11-3244 states in the catalog it's for power up and down.

     I believe I got the wiring right so it has to be the pendant., but I'm gonna send the schematic to Phoenix to double check.....

  6. Nice re make, I had to case harden a HF hammer after I put alot of effort into it and it wouldn't get hard at all. I look for old American made hammers at flea markets and thrift stores. They're just as cheap and the steel is good for a re make or not....

  7. I saw that switch at surpluscenter. http://www.surpluscenter.com/pages/Catalog285-152.pdf

    It looks like it comes in a couple of different versions, I would double check with a meter between all the leads just to be sure you have what you think you do.

    You are right on DK, the bozo at Phoenix instructed me to buy a vhs 61 (single acting) and I need a 11-3244 (dbl acting) When I pushed 'up' one side of the valve opened and one light came on (like it should), when I pushed 'down' both lights came on and the solenoids growled....no bueno. It was only momentary so I don't think it's toasted but Mr tech at Phoenix is gonna hear from me in the AM...... :angry:

  8. Yeah, the green lead seems a little squirrelly. It even looks like it has a larger lug, as grounds often do.

    I just don't want to see you smoke anything, and hope all goes well.

    Well, one thing is it makes sense and electrical circuts are very logical...... Maybe that's why I struggle with them so...... :wacko:

  9. I saw that switch at surpluscenter. http://www.surpluscenter.com/pages/Catalog285-152.pdf

    It looks like it comes in a couple of different versions, I would double check with a meter between all the leads just to be sure you have what you think you do.

    That's where it came from. The tech guy at http://www.phoenixhyd.com/ said it was exactly the right one......but he wasn't worth a.......hoot after that. What puzzled me was the green dosn't go to ground on the pendant, it's a common line or neutral. CD's schematic brought it all to light.......I can follow directions, but when it comes to electricty I just can't write em sometimes.... :mellow:

  10. If you use a nut welded on the ram make sure to use a jam nut above the threads on the rod and TIGHTEN that puppy.......I wouldn't use a clevis since yours is an in line set up....If you do, DON'T just slide the pin through and put a cotter pin in it, the slop will wallow the hole(s) over time.....Use a bolt and clamp the clevis to the lug.

  11. Yeah, the devil is in the details......It's all 110....I was at the RMS Xmas party yesterday and my friend Scott Kretchner drew out a schematic in the back of a present box....I'll try to make better sense of it today if not I'll try to coax him over here with single malt......After the wiring is done of course.... :lol:.......Thanks


  12. Well....What can you bring to the table CD? Come on....... show us a toy, there are no BATF members here....... :unsure:

     

    My apprentice showed up with this monster so he's in..(and I thought I was nuts)...An AK 47 12 ga w/a 9 round magazine, goose season is on too.... B)

    post-15096-0-33198900-1355028235_thumb.j

  13. OH thats an easy one !  just take off the solenoid install a manual hand valve & youre there :D

    And you DON'T need a Electritian :P

     

    so are we helping yet  LOL      well someone had to do it  ;)

     

    Electritian eh? I don't want one of those either...... :P

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