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Posts posted by macbruce
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I take it back. I broke an anvil with a sledge once, it was the first anvil I ever bought and from a surplus store I recall.....It was a 50# and after a forging session or 6 it looked like I'd moved more metal on the 'anvil' face than the hot steel...... :angry: ......Anyway I picked up an 8# sledge an broke off the horn and heel and tossed it in the scrap.... ^_^.....The school of hard knocks was a bitter pill and I've never considered a 'new anvil' at a surplus store or places like HF ever since. Having this forum would have been nice back then.....
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They sent me ANOTHER VHS-61.......
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Macbruce thanks for posting the pictures of your bottom bolt on system. I will surely use this as I have pleny of dies that do not line up that well. Mark
There is a rub here. You will reduce your headspace so make the sowplate as thin as possible.....no less than 3/4'' or more than 1'' I would say....The hammers I have built have always had them factored so they're 1 1/4'' min.
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Wow, really? As a complete newcomer I feel like this is something I could tackle on a smaller scale fairly early on. What IS the easy way?
This is the easiest, just buy pre cut out petals and go to it.........The pic is not my work.
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Turn your brake drums and rotors?
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It would not let me see the other photos unless I signed in. I am not a member of facebook
I find the photo very interesting.
Sorry, I won't try that again......
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There's 31 pics, click on each picture
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Could you put a strait edge on the face and shoot an elevation pic of the side without the emblem?
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Yep, the schematic is spot on and Surplus Center shipped the wrong pendant. SC has agreed to take the incorect one back even though I cut the wires from 20' to 8', Good folks... :) .....Now all I have to do is wait..... :(
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Some of the spokes may be WI but the rest is cast......I'd pass.
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Here's the deal with the pendant I have......When I connect my continutity tester to green and white It operates both U&D, when I connect black and green only U operates and D is dead as it should be.....
I believe the single acting pendant VHS-61 is for a car lift type pump which needs no power to lower a heavy car cause weight alone will do that.
The double acting 11-3244 states in the catalog it's for power up and down.
I believe I got the wiring right so it has to be the pendant., but I'm gonna send the schematic to Phoenix to double check.....
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Nice re make, I had to case harden a HF hammer after I put alot of effort into it and it wouldn't get hard at all. I look for old American made hammers at flea markets and thrift stores. They're just as cheap and the steel is good for a re make or not....
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Nice work, I'd be proud to own any one of them.
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I saw that switch at surpluscenter. http://www.surpluscenter.com/pages/Catalog285-152.pdf
It looks like it comes in a couple of different versions, I would double check with a meter between all the leads just to be sure you have what you think you do.
You are right on DK, the bozo at Phoenix instructed me to buy a vhs 61 (single acting) and I need a 11-3244 (dbl acting) When I pushed 'up' one side of the valve opened and one light came on (like it should), when I pushed 'down' both lights came on and the solenoids growled....no bueno. It was only momentary so I don't think it's toasted but Mr tech at Phoenix is gonna hear from me in the AM...... :angry:
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Yeah, the green lead seems a little squirrelly. It even looks like it has a larger lug, as grounds often do.
I just don't want to see you smoke anything, and hope all goes well.
Well, one thing is it makes sense and electrical circuts are very logical...... Maybe that's why I struggle with them so...... :wacko:
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I saw that switch at surpluscenter. http://www.surpluscenter.com/pages/Catalog285-152.pdf
It looks like it comes in a couple of different versions, I would double check with a meter between all the leads just to be sure you have what you think you do.
That's where it came from. The tech guy at http://www.phoenixhyd.com/ said it was exactly the right one......but he wasn't worth a.......hoot after that. What puzzled me was the green dosn't go to ground on the pendant, it's a common line or neutral. CD's schematic brought it all to light.......I can follow directions, but when it comes to electricty I just can't write em sometimes.... :mellow:
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Even taking precautions, I always end up with those "porcupine quills" stuck in my forehead and my scalp.
Got one in the tip of my nose once :blink: Best to go with belt and suspenders with these, glasses and face shield....An apron ain't a bad idea either, they go through jeans as well...... :o
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If you use a nut welded on the ram make sure to use a jam nut above the threads on the rod and TIGHTEN that puppy.......I wouldn't use a clevis since yours is an in line set up....If you do, DON'T just slide the pin through and put a cotter pin in it, the slop will wallow the hole(s) over time.....Use a bolt and clamp the clevis to the lug.
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Gonna get up to 70 today here in GA :P
It's definitely you..... B)
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Yeah, the devil is in the details......It's all 110....I was at the RMS Xmas party yesterday and my friend Scott Kretchner drew out a schematic in the back of a present box....I'll try to make better sense of it today if not I'll try to coax him over here with single malt......After the wiring is done of course.... :lol:.......Thanks
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OH thats an easy one ! just take off the solenoid install a manual hand valve & youre there :D
And you DON'T need a Electritian :P
so are we helping yet LOL well someone had to do it ;)
Electritian eh? I don't want one of those either...... :P
Could brake fluid be used as an etchant?
in Finishes for Metal
Posted
If brake fluid etched steel it would eat steel tube brake lines...... :mellow: