macbruce

Because If he isnt sharing how to build one, then this thread is just a 5 page advertizement :D

I paid for advertizing over at Metal Artist Forum, but my money isn't any good here.....I'll tell you all this, the tubing in the new model pic on 3 September is 2''x2''. Just copy the pic, enlarge or reduce to scale, then have at it....It isn't rocket science and it's way more than I had when I dreamed this money pit up........Just one thing, you'll earn every penny of that $1150 doing it..... ;) .......Merry Christmas to all and to all a good night ...... :lol:

This is reguarding my almost completed ''Bulldoze Bender''. Now if I just had to make the motor go on and off I wouldn't be asking but my mind goes flop bot when it gets to this relay business. I can't take a chance on frying my new $200 solenoid valve so if there's anybody who can maybe doodle me up a diagram I would appreciate it muchly.......If you are just going to tell me to hire an electrician I don't want to hear it..... :) ......

Pic bdb2:  the yellow line is coming from the solenoid switch. orange/ red are one solenoid valve and white/black is the other. These are to be comanded by the pendant switch by black and white, thanks in advance....mb

BP?

Fun to make ain't they? My little canfull keeps growing and growing as needed..... B)

Looks like a great machine Bruce.   If I were doing ornamental work I would be ordering one.   I have used a handheld muffler type gun modified so the chisel will not rotate.  It saves hours of work and for simple incising work probably works as well for some work.  But for the grooving and repousse work etc.  the Zipmax blows it away.   Because the pneumatic tools are hitting THOUSANDS of rapid light blows I think you actually get a better finish then doing it by hand as well as being astronomically faster.

 

Are you stocking a finished one for sale Bruce?  I am starting to get a little more historical restoration work to quote and may end up doing some ornamental work again in the next couple of years. 

Thanks for your comments, I keep a few on hand ready to ship.

Thanks much, the rivet tool will go down on my projects list.

Mind if down the line I also modify something I already made so that it resembles ye ol' Zipmax? 

I'd like to see it.... :)

Is it possible to make a full sized jig, starting with something like thick aluminum wire (large enough to minimize further steps but small enough to handle the trip back to the shop as well as easy to handle) on-site to make the curve, then bring that to the shop and use as is or beef it up?

I have in the past used thin material like 1'' x 1/8'' to bend and twist in the field  until it fits resting on the steps. Then take it back to the shop and use it for a template.

Any chance of you taking a pic? I've tried but I can't get my mind wraped around your discription well enough to voice an opinion.

I was actually thinking about making a hardy something like that for making rivets.  Mind if I despoil and corrupt your design to that end?

I'd be flattered..... :wub: ......

Ok, 3.14 square inches x 12= 37.68 cubic inches......19.62 sq inches x 6 = 117.72 CI or 37.68/117.72......Rounded off to say 118 divided by 20 you get almost 1/6.......The 2'' cyl with a 12'' stroke is a way closer choice but with a light 25 lb ram it's going to be very snappy, the opposit of what you had but the smallish ports may mitigate that a little and you can turn down the air pressure. Better more snappy than too sluggish.

Another thing that concerns me is you're ram guides don't look robust/heavy enough to me........Everybody is entitled to a good education, wether it be the school of hard knocks or otherwise, I should know better than most. Good luck with your project........ :)

Note: On my previous post I should have said square inches instead of cubic inches.

Description from the Matchlessantique/Blacksmith Barn FB page..............

Heavy striking on to small an anvil especially in cold temps is a good reciepe for disaster......Poor quality control, anvils made on Friday afternoon or Monday morning......I've seen people just beat on em with large hammers but never seen one break....

Cool design and good execution......It gets the point across without blocking the view of the fire.

I saw this table by 'Blacksmith Barn' on FB a short time ago and they said I could post it here. I can't quite figgure what the top was/is..... I like it.

Macbruce, Sorry to say it's probably never going to work!!! You got the wrong switch!!! It's marked "up and down" you want forward and back. :huh:

Dang!! I'll have to make it into a vertical bender..... :(

Yes, cast steel and nice ones at that.

Got all the goodies now.....Back at it tomorrow.

That is one rugged cross! Looks like the BFH used some BFH's to get er done...... B)

Thanks for the input. 

 

The CFM requirements for that chambersburg is really good info.  If I reduce my cylinder volume by about 2/3s, with a 2" cyl, I'll get closer to the air:volume ratio of a store-bought hammer, and hopefully to be able to up the airflow and move faster.

2/3???  You missed it by alot. A 2'' cylinder is 3.14 cubic inches or 16% and a 5'' is 19.62 ci or 84%, far closer to 1/5...............There's plenty of tried and true designs and folks ready and willing to help but you've gotten off to a bad start. I think what you've done can be salvaged but don't hurry up and do it three or four times, there's too much knowledge here for that....... :)

A 200 lb chambersburg utility for instance needs 70-80 cubic ft. per minute at 90 psi and has a 5'' bore with a 16'' stroke as near as I can recall. A good 5hp compressor puts out 17.5 cfm. If you were to lengthen the stroke it would run even more sluggish. I reckon a 2''-2 1/2'' cyl with a 10''-12'' stroke is what you need.

Tom is spot on.

If I were selling it, It wouldn't be for cheap. Those are much sought after and it's in nice shape.....Ya never know, wave a C note under his nose..... ;)

I noticed you're into blades on your profile. If it's steel for a knives or a piece of bronze then I might consider cutting it but if you need 1x1/8 flat mild steel just go to ace and buy a little......Cut off wheels for a grinder aren't free and you'll use a couple of those at least doing the grinder method.....

They look like Warrington hammers used mostly by woodworkers. The thin peen allows you to start a nail or brad, hopefully without hitting finger or thumb. I think they are nice looking, and I'm happy you can shape small scrolls handily with a Warrington.

It has to be an ACME imo. I don't know what you paid and it's not ''perfect'' but that's one heck of a nice anvil. If the work you do on it sucks, you can't blame that anvil, use it well...... B)