macbruce

macbruce,
That's an interesting idea. I didn't think of varying the orifice size to balance the air flowing into the back of the burner. I'd be interested to try it... wouldn't that be really tricky to tune? Are you willing to share any plans or dimensions for this kind of burner, that work well?

You're right, messing with air gates can be finicky. At some point I'll simplify the choke, so that it can be tuned and then fixed in position. On the other hand, the T-Rex burners have adjustable chokes and they have developed a reputation of being "the best in class" for as far as atmospheric burners go.

All the best
Markus

One thing to consider is.....If you're forging say 1 1/4'' round bz do your experimenting and dialing in with 1 1/4'' steel....way cheaper to mess that up..... ;)

Like Thomas says make sure the dies ''sit well''. If the base the lower die sits on is out of wack in relation to the upper it must be fixed. Since the dies are new it can't be them, but work done on combos is never centered so that's part of the problem I reckon. If your ram and guides are looser than they should be working off center will exacerbate the problem. I believe barstock will always curve when worked through the dies no matter how rigid and true the ram and guides are because of all the variables, the biggest being ourselves..........

What kind of dies are you using?

Well, either move the eccentric up or down or drive out the wedge and position the saw toothed watacha doogie higher or lower. A word to the wise......Put a say 4-6'' wood block between the jaws and rest the upper die on it cause if it falls it's a booger to raise up to where you can pick up the WD again....;-) Pics of where it is now would help.

I would suggest losing the choke and doing an in line nozzle that maximizes the venturi after finding the orifice that works the best with a static unimpeded air orifice. Fiddling with air gates to achieve the desired air/fuel mix is a flail imo..... :)

What are you trying accomplish with your press(es)? If it's forging seems to me AO and bottle jacks ain't gonna cut it......

The railroad track is the starter, That HB is the real deal, grab it if you can.

I'd bolt em. Depends alot on the design. I think you can buy steel units from Woodworker's Supply that could be made to work with metal.

I dunno, If I were thinking of bidding on it I'd be sure to take a ball bearing and a little file to to check out the face. Might be cast steel, could very well be an ASO....buyer beware!

On to # 300!..... B)

copyrighted clipart with a frowning smiles with thumbs down removed

Recreational explosives can be lots of fun.....If you know what you're doing. Even then,TSCHTF..... ;)

#36 grit cup wheel held FLAT in swirling motions across the whole face, then on to Finer grit flap discs flat across the whole face. The dissapearing marks are a good indicator of how even your progress is. I wouldn't try to get all the marks on that one, works for me.........

You might talk to Sid at Little Giant, he has a guy who rebuilds this kind if thing. He just refurbished a 25 LG ram for me (old style) and did a great job....worth a look see......mb

Thermite looks like wicked fun and it's easy to make as per Google.....I think it would be fun to weld (meld) sculptural elements with it, SS probly won't approve but I gotta be me..... :D

Welcome aboard Phil!

Does it belong to you? If so you might want to keep it a vault...... ;)

I'll take two!

Thanks....I can see now the rear tire skid mark that ends in a J hook after impact, glad nobody was in the way.... B)

We, more than people know about the effect of kinetic energy, that is you have to have it in order to to produce certian results......I just can't get my mind wraped around this...... :wacko:
If this is photoshop, it's very good......

I rember Clifton Ralph fielding a question from someone at one of his demos back in the 90's.......The guy asked; ''can you tell us how to rebuild PH dies?'' and Clifton snorted; ''NAW, I'll show you how to wear em out!''.... :lol: ...The point being, what we do to our tools causes wear and tear. Just look at how many anvils a sway backed from years of normal use. As long as you're not a knuckle draging cretin with reguard to missing blows on the horn you won't hurt it, It just gives it a little character ..... ;)

They got American made souvenirs, but they ain`t cheap. Price a pair of Levi`s while you`re there. :o

First and foremost you do NOT want your forge THAT close to your fuel source!!! If TSHTF you need to be able to turn off the fuel away from the fire. .....I believe one burner per 355 cubic inches of space is nominal and that tank will be way over that.....Do you need one that big?

On 22ga material a WJ can cut a 3-4'' circle in seconds. A 4'x8' sheet would be transformed into those little circles in less than 15 min......Setup would be a factor on the first go around, after that, not so much. BTW, waterjet outfits are just as hungry as everybody else....It pays to shop around.

DOH!