macbruce

Lookin' good TJ......... B)

Welcome Danny..........Walk away from that one....... ;)

Judging by the shape and the presence of flat areas for and aft on the feet I'd wager it's a Peter Wright and a nice one aside from the broken heel. Well worth the drive imo............ B)

Welcome Camo.At first glance I would have said it's a Peter Wright but they're not not solid steel......Looks like a nice anvil though....Are you in NSW?

 The ''life preserver'' loop looks like an expantion loop in the steam pipe with a small connection tapped into it, perhaps to power an oiler.....The ring has a peg that would indeed change the sword dynamic if rotated.........sure would be fun to try it out....... B)

This is from a book about historic railroad shops in Argentina.

I remember being in a thrift store looking at used tv's and wondering what the heck those two eratic white plumes were racing across a blue background and why so many people were watching it.......On a happier note I also remember getting up early in Sarasota FL to go fishing on the bay and seeing another plume darting skyward with a brite light at the top. I was looking all the way across the peninsula watching the shuttle rise with the sun, I don't need a picture to invision that again.......... B) .......Seems you chose a line of endeavor that includes many firmly earthbound objects, glad you're still around. mb

I tried scoring all round a piece of rail and using a rail cutter chisel with a sledge and it said ''OH REALLY''...LOL......Nothing doing.

It cuts just fine with a bandsaw though on slow speed with a bi-metal blade.

Feet Per Minute is the standard....The lowest speed on my Roll-in is 70 fpm and I only use it for cutting thick blocks of tool steel with a 6 tpi (teeth per inch). Normally I use 140 or 270 for common mild steel stock....... I wouldn't have a metal cutting bandsaw that couldn't go nice and slow when the need arises.

There's a pretty nice looking PW on CL in Abiline the guy's asking $500 for......You won't find a 'real' new anvil for 400 or less, forged or cast.

Lovely, I like the way it fits the space w/o blocking the views and the natural finish.....Bravo!    B)

It'll be fine, quit stressimg about it and get to work. You've got some very sharp corners now so just relieve them a tad and forge ahead..... B)

Do you know wether or not the anvil face was hard or soft before you milled it? As pitted as it was, maybe it was soft to begin with....Hence the pitts.

It looks great.If it checks out ok GRAB it !

Got to sleep in a bit this AM,,,, :wub: ....Yesterday at -14 the wife's car wouldn't start so I had to get up and jump it before she could head out to work...... <_< but today at +11 it fired right up, maybe that old battery will last till spring...... B)

Better not risk it....... :mellow:

Bruce, I recon the onsite requirements kill it on this one .

Ian  

No way. I originally built mine for bending forged cap/grip rail in the field. The stuff I was bending was 3/4''x 1 1/2'' on edge with the pins set wide. The twisting of the curved matieral for curved stair rails is the real booger. Shucks, it only weighs 3-400 lbs, hoist it onto a truck or trailer, plug it into 110v on site and bada bing..... B)

I use a foot pedal on my drill press, quick to stop if there's trouble and also very efficient.

I'd like to see that.......... B)

Mr P. ,

No welding or walnuts, mostly to take up the slack of my back! I walked away from the comp while you posted.
Generally I'd probably use it for shaping longer lengths post forged. Average size maby 3/4".

The previous post about bending the hard way is about an upcoming railing with a compound curve, I usually job those out but I'm going to do some onsite bending this time.
 

I know what you need  :)

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It's a double reduction like mine but the tag is confusing to me......I'd mark the output and rotate the imput so the output moves 90* then multiply the input turns x4.

Without knowing psi and cyl diameter it's hard to say what the tonage is but it looks like it could bend 1.5'' round with the outer pins set wide.....I kinda get the feeling it wouldn't do a tight bend with the pins in close though....It takes alota umph to do that cold and the general construction of the machine doesn't look heavy enough to do that imo.......

I rescued this from the the trash, I think this would work for twisting stock cold. I just need to figure a way to secure the metal at both ends. and make a table for it.

It reccomends to use gargoyle oil,DSCF0341.jpeg I dont think there are any 'round here? I haven't started looking for 600 w oil yet, any suggestions

 

 

My twister was made from a 50 to one gear reducer that weghs 250-300lbs. I can't tell for sure what the reduction  is on yours or how big it is but it needs to be big  for twisting. The output shaft on yours I'd guess is 2-21/2'' which is about right. Mine will twist 1.25 square cold and much larger hot. I just use 90wt gear lube in mine and it works well.

I have one and I love it...... B)

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Last saw him in Rapid City where he recieved his well deserved Alex Bealer Award. Glad we got to visit one last time on such a happy occasion.

Well, xxxx. Bad news indeed.....Rip Toby.

These chain thumpers just fascinate me........