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meco3hp

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Posts posted by meco3hp

  1. From "The New Stuff" on IForgeIron.com

    "If you missed November 29, 2005 Tuedsay Night Live Blueprints, we got in 5 blueprints, how to handle a sledge, building a hydraulic press, 2 styles of hardie hole sleves, a simple foot for a flag holder and an anvil cutting plate. Then there were several knives shown for comments. Some really nice work. We do the Blueprints Live Every Tuesday Night. Join us if you get a chance."

    Hope to see you next week!
    Richard



    Small edit

  2. Hello,
    Look at the top of your post as soon as you post it and you can see when it was posted at Eastern standard time.

    http://www.metalsmithinghow-to.com/tutorials.cfm?content=82&page=Spikes/index.htm

    http://www.metalsmithinghowto.com/tutorials.cfm?page=IRONY/intro.htm&content=122

    I'm not sure if the RRs in Sweden use the same kind of parts and pieces, but here are some links to RR steel info.

    To maybe help on translation, you might want to look for a "text translator" to down load. You english is very good, and I'm sure as you use it more often it will become even better! :)

  3. I don't know about the pipe with a blower on it. I'm assuming it is possible. You'd just have to figure out how much more propane you'd need to get it to work with the forced air. What are the dims on the inside of the forge? A Reil type burner should make enough BTU's to heat a 250 cu. in. forge to welding heat. What are the dims on the insulation? Does the outside of the forge get hot? As in any color to the outside? If it's showing color on the outside of the forge, your insulation isn't thick enough.

    http://www.frontiernet.net/~gnreil/design1.shtml

    If you haven't checked out Ron Reil's web site, you should. It has a fantastic amount of info about gassers, just like your's. I know they discussed setting this type of burner up using forced air and natural gas straight from the main line into the house.
    If I may ask, why do you have a choke on it? I've not seen any designs that have that feature. Also make sure there isn't any burrs on the orfice in the feed tube and that it is orintaited so the orfice is centered in the burner tube, and that it is blowing straight down the center.

  4. Hello,
    Yep, I read it. Yes, thats a real knife for sure. I'm assuming this is kinda like what my customer seen. Well beyond my capabilities for sure. It is a really nice looking knife though. I'd love to watch one bying made.

  5. Just bringing it back to the top agian. We had 2 blueprints last week and a real nice door prize. I also beleive we had 35 people last Tuesday night! If you get in late, during a blueprint, please hold comments until after the blueprint is over. So come join us by clicking on the link at the top of this thread.

  6. Hello,
    Went to a meeting tonight for the local gas engine show and met my reenactor customer there. He said he seen a new item for sale here at his last blackpowder meet that he'd like to see about having me make some to try to sell. They where knives made from horse shoes. He said they took a shoe and twisted it 180* right at the "toe" using one half as a handle and then forged the other into a blade. He said the handle looked just like a store bought shoe, with the holes and groove for the nails. He also swore they where tempered. I didn't think they made horse shoes from high carbon steel or something that could be tempered into a blade. Could this somebody making shoes out of something you would use for a blade, to get around that problem, or are they adding carbon to the shoe some how. This guy used to mess with BS years ago before he got into blackpowder, but not to much of any extent. I'm sure he asked about the tempering and would know if somebody was pulling a fast one. Any ideas? Anybody seen one of these knives?

  7. Hello,
    When you go vist, make sure to take something you've made from something you've bought from him as a gift, maybe some thing for him to give to the wife at home. If you've got a bucket of non-smithable scrap take it and just give it to him, as it's no use to you. Now don't take him a bucket of tin cans, but something he can sell as scrap, like drops, cast iron, brass valves, copper tubing, is always a nice thing for a scrap man to have. You won't get any money out of it but you'll get access to him and maybe his yard. Easier to attract bees with honey than vinegar! Remember, the scrap business is always a "borderline business", with a close profit margin.

  8. Hello,
    Go to your nearest salvage yard, and find a coilover shock on a old car and buy it. Most of those coilover springs are 5/16" spring steel. Take it home, remove the spring from the outside of the shock, heat to forging temps and uncoil the spring until you get the lenght you need for your project. This is what most of us do, for spring steel. Most of us get our steels from scrap piles.

  9. Hello,
    Went on a walk today along some RR tracks. I found the regular amount of spikes and such, but I found two other items of intrest.
    The first item is a chunk of metallic material, that I think came from where they used "thermite" to weld rails together, as this track is ribbon rail. The pics have a magnet hanging off of the side of it and it has a strong pull. I'm going to try forging it and see what I get.
    The second item is a 10" long shaft about 2" dia. that was broke. When I looked at it the break, it seams to have a "sheath" around the edge, like the center pulled apart but the outer surface stayed intact. Could this be "case hardened"? How do you use a chuck of this stuff. Does it forge like regular steel or what?
    Here are some pics.
    moreiron004.jpg
    moreiron005.jpg
    moreiron006.jpg

    Let me know what you think.

  10. Hello,
    I was down at NAPA today talking to the counter guy about my chisels and one of the local farmers asked if I'd back them when used on a grade 8 bolt and nut, and if they where heat treated the whole lenght. I said "No, chisels aren't made for that, and that you didn't heat treat a chisel the whole lenght, just a 1" to 1 1/2" back from the cutting tip.". He then went on to tell me and a couple of other guys that had came into the store, that my chisels where "junk" and that they where worthless. Luckly the counter guy spoke up and said the chisel that NAPA sold wasn't warrentied after using them in a way that they wheren't designed for, like a grade 8 bolt. I also countered that I could easily prove him wrong, and if he would just wait 5 minutes I'd got get some referance books, (Henry Ford's 1941 Shop Theroies, ect.). He said he knew what was right and that he didn't have time to xxxx with me. Just so you know, I was ready to box! After he left the counter guy said he was a idiot which I fully agreed with. I then made sure (in front of everybody) that he got a free chisel and center punch for his tool box knowing that he'd report (and the guys in the store would ask about them) back on how well they worked. He's helped me sell some lead hammers using the same deal. "Free hammer and tell anybody that wants one to call me." This works good for us. I get good advertising, and testing, and he gets good tools for free.
    Now I looked in my ref books when I got home to see if there was a spec for cold chisels on just what they would or wouldn't cut and the general spec was "used for chipping, soft metals, and thin sheets" I feel I was right even though I wasn't looking for a fight with anybody, but I'll be xxxxx if I'm going to stand by while some idiot bad mouthed me on a subject when he had less than no info on the subject.

    Anybody care to comment on this adventure?


    Edit: Words edited

  11. Hello,
    My "whirlwind" forge pot is 9" long, 8" wide and about 6" deep. Randy McDaniel's book, "A Blacksmithing Primer" has plans for one that is11"x9"x 5 1/2" This is a fabricated one. He also has a forge table plan thats 60"x24" and 34" tall. Just some more info for you.

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