ThomasPowers

OTOH Wafers are "wafer thin" and not thick like waffles. Look up pizzelle for the Italian take on them! Think of stroopwafel sides for a Dutch take on them.

Is your name on their birth certificates?

The LG website says it should run around 150 to 190 BPM and specs an 1155 rpm motor.

Use fairly heavy stock so that they will have enough heat in them to cook the wafer in one go. Please note that rectangular wafer irons are also known and easier to source the material than the round ones...

Tong clips help.

Back when I worked for Bell Labs---30 years ago. We had a training exercise that showed that multitasking was often slower than sequential tasking as context switching took appreciable time.

Long history of folks not treating things right if they don't own them; several variations on "to work like a rented mule", "to beat like a rented mule", etc. Just teaching students for not even a break even fee; I've seen a lot of that. One student was having terrible hammer control, hitting the anvil face hard with the edge of the hammer time and time again. I finally asked him if he was using his dominate hand to hammer with and he replied that "No he was trying to learn to hammer with his off hand." I told him he wasn't paying enough to damage my equipment learning and either stop or leave the class.

I was wondering about using a screwpress and one end of a bush hammer for making the "waffling" but it would take some precision to get them lined up to inter penetrate. One technique for embossing designs is to hammer the rounded chisels in from the front and then file the plate flat leaving the grooves.

Yes it is my friend who went from sword making into minting by way of me sourcing his first screwpress. They are neat people and very much a family business. It was originally set up in Springdale AR then moved to their new building in Westfork AR.

I've taken short lengths of black iron pipe and hammered them down to slip of the tong ends for dedicated uses---I had a set of tongs that held my favorite slitting chisel done that way till a student broke the pair of tongs. (Now it has a dedicated handle that will take a lot more abuse and is cheap and easy to replace.) At an IITH I got a set of C tong clips that have several nubs on the inside curve so they will fit a number of different sizes that are very handy.

John, have you thought about a pair of tongs with curved ends welded on the bits )( ? Rojo, would using a rivet set improve the looks of the tenon ends? I have a number of different sided rivet sets including a couple for structural steel rivets that were over an inch in diameter! (Those are actually set hammers.) SloJo: you may want to try working with heavy copper grounding wire. Much easier to work with than brass. You will still need to anneal it. There are a number of ways to do the terminations. Flattening is probably the easiest, followed by scrolling. One of the more difficult ones is to file the ends down to pegs and rivet beads onto them---I've used "amber"---probably fake, before. A grace note is to work the pin. I've done a smoothed down twist for a unicorn horn look, probably the fanciest I have done was to make the pin a claymore, (sword not mine!) My apprentice gave me one as a gift that has a pattern welded ring with a mokume gane pin with PMC terminations with a PMC hammer and anvil dangling from them. I've been making penannular brooches for the SCA for over 40 years now using my forge or a charcoal fire for annealing. I even teach the class at events.

Good! Many folks try to use hard noninsulating firebrick and find it is a major factor in running up the fuel costs and issues with getting the interior hot enough.

How did you heat treat it to get maximum springiness for what you have? I was able to build a 20'x30' shop with 10' walls quite cheaply using my scrounging skills. Of course it has 4 different shades of blue propanel on it and I lucked out that a major hailstorm in town generated a lot of used propanel and leftovers from re-roofing larger buildings. I guess it helps too that our bedroom doesn't have a window on the wall towards that corner of the property and that we live in a rural area where barns and sheds are the norm; many less eyesome than mine!

I'm going to dogpile on what George said; *BOTH* parts! I'll pray that things go better for you in the future.

Be sure to use insulative fire bricks and not hard "heat sink" fire bricks!

TW, the Shire Post Mint over at West Fork AR was selling seals & Stuff, Commercial link removed (Google it). I don't know if they are still running their "Hobbit post office" though.

Make sure you have a locking container for stuff you don't want to share! Several friends have lost or had tools damaged in maker spaces!

If it's medieval; then it's much more likely to be a wafer iron; see http://www.larsdatter.com/wafer-irons.htm Not usually a honey comb but with designs and figures embossed into the surface. Often chiseled/engraved to make patterns of the wafers. See "Iron and Brass Implements of the English House", J Seymour Lindsay, plates 149 and 149. They show a good example of how they were made. For a true medieval version I would forge weld the "tong ends to the plates. (In real WI of course.) Later ones often used cast iron plates riveted to the WI handles. Wafers can be served flat or rolled up while still warm and pliable. I haven't seen any honeycombed waffle irons until the 19th century.

I had a friend come over and we forged for a while; he was working on a knife and I was taking an old wagon fitting and forming it to be a U bolt to make a post vise mount like the Columbians used. I went to drill a hole in a golf ball and found out that the power had been down for an hour. Total of almost 6 hours before it came back up. Luckily it was not dangerously hot today, only 91 degF / 33.8 degC.

If it wasn't double ended I'd guess it was a top tool for dressing star drills.

TW; I'll ask our kids to send him a few pamphlets from "Fast Turn Around Acres" the old folks home that doesn't drain the inheritance---for long!

(I bet his wife could teach the dogs to tie his shoelaces together while he naps...)

I remember when my Daughter was helping at a wild horse sanctuary and told me that she needed to buy a fencing multi tool. I walked out to the shop and asked her which one she wanted? So far I've only used it once; but when found cheap at scrapyard of garage sale... John, curses foiled again! (took a year of fencing in college... a time so far ago that geologic timescales help describing it...

Ah an expendable striker technique! Anvil Question: two tests that can be done remotely---if you trust the person or can have them send you video are the ring test---steel anvils will go TING when tapped and the ball bearing test. Drop a ball bearing from a measured height and see how far it bounces back up. I generally want at least 70% rebound.

As mentioned any is better than none and more is better than less. As I have a number of old anvils already my cut off for personal use is 70%. OTOH I've been lugging a 80#chunck of mild steel to demos lately to show new smiths that you don't have to have the *BEST* equipment to get started.